Crispy Chicken Thighs with Spicy, Brothy Chickpeas

A few months before the pandemic began in the U.S., I moved out to the D.C. ‘burbs. Along with a garden, enough square footage to adopt a second cat, and a permanent roommate who I’ve suckered into marrying me, this change afforded me ample storage space, which has been lovely for a number of reasons. Not least of which is that Costco and all the savings it brings is now a routine part of my life, since I actually have a place to store the bulk quantities of items on offer there. Which, during COVID, has been an incredibly helpful way to minimize grocery trips.

It has also meant I wind up with large quantities of byproducts that are a shame to waste, like pickle juice. I’ve been making lots of pickle vinaigrette for my daily lunch salads as of late, and after working my way through a giant box of feta, starting thinking about ways I could similarly put that brine to better use than simply pouring it down the drain. And thus I stumbled upon Souvla’s feta-brined chicken, by way of NYT Cooking. What a great idea!! But on this particular weeknight I was feeling too lazy to get out the blender, and I only had chicken thighs, and I wanted something one-dish…so here’s my lazy, pantry-friendly spin. Not quite as impressive as a whole bird, I’ll grant you, but I don’t think anyone will squawk. (I’m so sorry, I tried really hard to not do that to you, dear reader. I even wrote “complain” the first time! But I just couldn’t let the opportunity pass.) Even if they do, it’s no (crispy) skin off your nose– more schmaltzy broth for you!

Crispy-Skinned Chicken Thighs with Spicy, Brothy Beans

• 4 bone-in, skin-on Chicken Thighs
• 1-2 c. Feta brine (2 c. is great, but you’ll be fine with just 1 c. if that’s what you’ve got; just flip the bag once in a while to ensure even contact with the brine)
• 2 3/4 t. Salt, divided, plus more to taste
• 1 Lemon, zested (reserve juice for another use)
• 1 1/2 t. Cumin
• 1/2 t. Smoked Paprika
• 1/2 t. Pepper
• 4 cloves Garlic, thinly sliced
• 1 T. Tomato Paste
• 1-2 T. Harissa (start with 1 T. and adjust to your spice preference)
• 1 t. dried Turmeric
• 1 can Chickpeas, drained
• 1 Red Onion, cut into 1″ wedges
• Scallions, sliced thin on a bias, as garnish

Combine chicken, feta brine, and 2 t. salt in a (leakproof!) plastic bag and refrigerate overnight or for at least several hours. 

One hour before you’re ready to cook, remove chicken from brine and pat dry with paper towels, then leave it out to come up to room temperature. Preheat the oven to 425. In a small bowl, combine remaining ¾ t. salt, lemon zest, ½ t. cumin, smoked paprika, and pepper. Rub mixture all over the chicken thighs, underneath the skin. Give chicken skin one more paper towel pat-down to ensure it’s dry, then place in a cold skillet over medium-high heat. Cook without moving until skin is brown and crisped, and chicken releases easily from the pan. Flip and cook briefly on the other side (around 1 minute), then remove to a plate. Drain all but 1 T. fat from the pan, then add the garlic, tomato paste, harissa, remaining 1 t. cumin, and turmeric. Cook, stirring occasionally, for a few minutes, then add ½ c. water, scraping up any browned bits. Add a big pinch of salt, chickpeas, and red onion, stirring gently to combine. Nestle the chicken thighs into the skillet skin-side up, then cook for 20 minutes, until an instant-read thermometer reads 165 degrees or juices run clear when chicken is pierced with a knife. (If you want chef bonus points, briefly remove the chicken halfway through and give the chickpea mixture a good stir to help distribute that delicious schmaltz (chicken fat) dripping into it. Then return the chickens thighs and continue cooking.) Scatter with scallions to serve.